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 San Antonio, Texas, USA
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Dining in San Antonio
Little Rhein Steak House -- Taste History on the River
Carol B. Sowa
photo: dining

Best Read Guide
Germans may have their "Castles on the Rhein," but San Antonio has them one better with its "Rhein on the River" -- the famous Little Rhein Steak House, nestled in a picturesque bend of the winding San Antonio River.

This award-winning steakhouse, listed in Texas' Top Ten Steakhouses for 2001, sits on a rich, historic site that has witnessed a panorama of San Antonio and Texas history. This area was home to a 15th-century Coahuiltecan Indian settlement, an 18th-century Spanish village, Santa Anna's encampment at the Battle of the Alamo and a late 19th-century neighborhood of German immigrants. It was during this latter period that the surrounding neighborhood became known as "The Little Rhein District." The stone building housing the current restaurant was constructed around 1847 and is believed to be San Antonio's first two-story structure. It contains a third-level basement discovered in 1950. The basement was buried in silt from long-ago floods -- before the river was "tamed" by modern dams and cut-off channels.

German Saloon

The quaint German-style building has had several "incarnations" itself, from being an early home to boarding house, a German saloon, a hangout for desperadoes and a historic museum before settling into its present role as first-class dining destination. Inside, the thick stone walls are bedecked with a variety of vintage collectibles acquired by Little Rhein founder Frank Phelps, who established the steakhouse in 1967. Advertising panels and serving trays share wall space with Teutonic wall hangings depicting imbibing merrymakers of past centuries.

Behind the first-floor bar and main dining room, a spacious porch accommodates more linen-clad tables and surveys several flagstoned dining terraces overlooking the river and nearby Arneson River Theatre. The mission bells gracing the Arneson's mission-style back wall hang there today thanks to the dedication of the Phelpses. Originally included in designs for the Arneson River Theatre by its architect, Robert H.H. Hugman, the bells were omitted after Hugman's dismissal for political reasons before his beloved River Walk project was completed. The Phelpses spearheaded a drive for the five bells to be forged by a certified bell-maker. The bells were installed in a ceremony attended by an aging Hugman in 1978, after they had hung briefly from Little Rhein's high ceilings for two months while awaiting bureaucratic approval. The basement comprises two private dining rooms -- plus a secret wall passageway, down which desperadoes of yesteryear once fled from the upper floor to escape down an interior water well (still visible in Little Rhein's glassed-in wine cellar) and emerge 100 yards downriver.

Succulent Steaks

Apart from history, the Little Rhein holds its share of gustatory appeal, featuring succulent steaks, hand-cut and aged in Little Rhein's own meat plant -- including prime porterhouse, sirloin and rib eye, as well as filet mignon and Filet Mignon Brochette (loaded with fresh skewered and grilled veggies), plus lobster tail, fresh Norwegian salmon, loin lamb chops and marinated chicken breasts. Side dishes (Roquefort Mashed Potatoes are a specialty) are big enough to share and the Little Rhein's Appetizer Tray offers a tasty sampling of its starters, including stuffed mushrooms, stuffed jalape-os, shrimp cocktail and crab claws. Desserts are generously oversized and include the signature "Little Rhein Mudball," a sinfully delicious, firmly packed, Bluebell ice cream ball rolled in crushed Oreos¨, smothered with chocolate sauce and whipped cream and capped with fresh strawberries.

For a taste of history with great tasting food, you will definitely want to include the Little Rhein Steak House on your San Antonio itinerary.

Little Rhein Steakhouse

231 S. Alamo

210-225-1212

Open Daily

5 to 10:30 p.m.

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