This award-winning steak house, listed in Texas' Top Ten Steakhouses for 2000, sits on a rich, historic site that has witnessed a panorama of San Antonio and Texas history -- a 15th-century Coahuiltecan Indian settlement, an 18th-century Spanish village, Santa Anna's encampment at the Battle of the Alamo and a late 19th-century neighborhood of German immigrants. It was during this latter period that the surrounding neighborhood became known as "The Little Rhein District." The stone structure housing the current restaurant was constructed around 1847 and is believed to be San Antonio's first two-story building. A third-level basement was discovered in 1950, buried in silt from long-ago floods, before the river was "tamed" by modern dams and cut-off channels.

The quaint, German-style building has had several "incarnations" itself, from being an early home to boarding house, German saloon, hangout for desperadoes and historic museum, before settling into its present role as first-class dining destination. Inside, the thick stone walls are bedecked with a variety of vintage collectibles acquired by Little Rhein founder Frank Phelps, who established the steak house in 1967. Vintage railroad train advertising panels and serving trays share wall space with Teutonic wall hangings depicting imbibing merrymakers of past centuries, while vintage brass lights that once graced an old federal courthouse in Chicago offer subdued lighting. Overhead, a model train lazily circles past small buildings, including a mini "Little Rhein," all built by Phelps.

Behind the first-floor bar and main dining room, a spacious porch accommodates more linen-clad tables and surveys several flag-stoned dining terraces overlooking the river and nearby Arneson River Theatre. The mission bells gracing the Arneson's mission-style back wall hang there today, thanks to the dedication of the Phelpses. Originally included in designs for the Arneson River Theatre by its architect, Robert H.H. Hugman, they were omitted after Hugman's dismissal for political reasons before his beloved River Walk project was completed. The Phelpses spearheaded a drive to have the five bells forged by a certified bell-maker, and they were installed in a ceremony in 1978 (attended by an aging Hugman), after hanging briefly from Little Rhein's high ceilings for two months awaiting bureaucratic approval. The basement holds two private dining rooms -- and a secret wall passageway, down which desperadoes of yesteryear once fled from the upper floor to escape down an interior water well (still visible in Little Rhein's glassed-in wine cellar) and emerge 100 yards down river.

Apart from history, the Little Rhein holds its share of gustatory appeal, featuring succulent steaks, hand-cut and aged in Little Rhein's own meat plant. Featured are prime porterhouse, sirloin and ribeye, as well as filet mignon and filet mignon brochette (loaded with fresh skewered and grilled veggies), plus lobster tail, fresh Norwegian salmon, loin lamb chops and marinated chicken breasts. Side dishes (Roquefort mashed potatoes are a specialty) are big enough to share, and the appetizer tray offers a tasty sampling of Little Rhein starters, including stuffed mushrooms, stuffed jalapeños, shrimp cocktail and crab claws. Desserts are generously oversized and include the signature "Little Rhein Mudball," a sinfully delicious, firmly-packed, Bluebell ice cream ball rolled in crushed Oreos, smothered with chocolate sauce and whipped cream and capped with fresh strawberries.

For a taste of history with great tasting food, you will definitely want to include the Little Rhein Steak House on your San Antonio itinerary.