This unique bistro owes its name to silver-screen goddess Dolores Del Rio, the Mexican-born movie star whose films once played at the nearby and newly restored Alameda Theatre. It owes its "soul" to Stefania Baldesarelli, doyenne of the local live music scene and belly dance legend who went on to national fame in the '70s for her hip-swiveling prowess. Originally trained in classical ballet, Stefania mastered that Middle Eastern mid-section art and shimmied into the national spotlight on the Maury Povich and Sally Jesse Raphael shows, showcasing her mastery of this unique art with such feats as pouring wine from one glass to another atop her tummy and flipping a row of quarters along her mid-section -- all with no hands. She had her own successful belly dance school for several years, whose "graduates" cut a lively swath across the San Antonio entertainment scene. She still dances occasionally and teaches a Saturday morning class of aspiring belly dancers.

Stefania has always mixed first-class music with her quality dining fare. Over the years, in various locations, she has been host to the likes of Doug Sahm in the '80s (Sahm's "Laredo Rose" was previewed for Stefania's diners before its album release), and introduced blues "wunderkind" Jake Owens, who went on to win national guitar play-off fame in Madison Square Garden, in the '90s. These days, at Dolores Del Rio Ristorante & Grill Room, the music menu listsjazz great Spot Barnett on Friday nights, the sultry jazz duo of Fred and Sylvia Salas on Monday and Tuesday evenings, jazz pianist Barry Brake on Saturdays, and a host of other first-class acts alternating on the remaining nights. Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, belly dancers -- sometimes Stefania herself! -- provide hip-swiveling entertainment.

The dining menu at Dolores Del Rio bows to Stefania's Italian heritage, running the gustatory gamut from Homemade Fettuccini to Italian Style Ribeye Steak and Veal Marsala. She's also famous for her seafood specialties -- Smoked Salmon in cream sauce with capellini pasta and parmesan cheese, Baby Clams with linguini in a butter garlic white wine sauce, and Shrimp Christopher with lemon butter sauce. Salads with an Italian flair, a variety of tasty appetizers and mouthwatering desserts, such as Cheesecake and Baklava, round out the culinary offerings, all prepared by Stefania's Cuban chef of 13 years, Jose Aguilar. The lunch menu offers lighter, but equally delicious fare.

Dolores Del Rio Ristorante & Grille is located at 106 E. Riverwalk. Just take the River Walk stairway by the Commerce St. Bridge at Soledad and look for the large tree (a box elder relocated by an old San Antonio flood) growing out of the stone wall and an inviting, open door that leads to a hidden stairway.

A jug of wine, a loaf of garlic bread, and pasta with a shimmy -- what more could you ask for on a languorous San Antonio night?