It was this adventuresome spirit that led to his delicious experiments with cactus pears (the succulent purple fruit of the Texas prickly pear) in concocting sorbets, salads, garnishes and even ice cream. At Marbella, he uses it in dressings and in custom-catering orders for special events. Knowledgeable in a variety of world cuisine, Matos is intrigued by the American West and Native American culture and constantly seeks new twists to old favorites. He transferred from the Houston Adam's Mark to his present position after falling in love with San Antonio's "sense of magic." He brings his own "magic" to the taste-tempting culinary delights he prepares for Marbella diners.

A sampling of the intriguing lunch menu prepared by this reigning Texas Chef's Association "Chef of the Year" includes a melt-in-your-mouth, seared-salmon salad -- encrusted with hazelnuts and honey mustard, served over Six-Leaf Lettuce with cucumbers, tomatoes, feta cheese and Buttermilk Ancho Dressing. Or there's the tasty grilled Portabello sandwich, sporting marinated mushrooms with alfalfa sprouts, Havarti Dill Cheese and Saffron Mayo on a toasted poppy seed roll with crisp vegetable chips (sweet potato, beet and taro root, deep-fried to bring out their natural sugars with less salt). Also taste-tempting are his mouth-watering Cajun roast beef quesadillas and chicken pizza salad (wood-baked wedges of Italian focaccia crowning a fresh Caesar salad with grilled chicken), and the mango-flavored iced tea is a refreshing change of pace.

Dinner-menu notables include Moroccan Rack o'Lamb and Baked Ginger & Macadamia Shrimp, with all menus updated three or four times a year. The breakfast menu goes upscale on weekends, offering such cosmopolitan fare as eggs Benedict and eggs Florentine. Matos' desserts are positively heavenly, with his rich, delicate Coffee Crème Brulee being absolutely irresistible. (Diet be damned, I had to scrape the last scrumptious bite from the cup ringed by plump strawberries basking on a palette of chocolate sauce, strawberry syrup and whipped cream!)

Marbella is open daily for full-service breakfast, lunch and dinner, with an attractive luncheon buffet available weekdays and a breakfast buffet offered seven days a week. They're all set in an elegant, expansive dining area lit by crystal chandeliers and featuring smooth jazz performances starting around 5 p.m. and continuing until 10 p.m. weekdays and 11 p.m. weekends. (Tiffany Rose Lounge and Players Sports Bar are adjacent.) So plan on letting "Culinary Cowboy" Chef Matos take your taste buds on an incomparable dining adventure at Restaurante Marbella. You won't regret it. For reservations, call 210-354-2800.