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 San Antonio, Texas, USA
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Dining in San Antonio
Zuni Grill
By Carol Sowa
photo: dining

Best Read Guide
That mysterious, hieroglyphic spiral, framed with primitive fork and spoon and marking the River Walk's Zuni Grill, is subject to a variety of interpretations. Does this popular Zuni symbol signify a ghostly whirlwind and entry into the spirit world? A coiled rattlesnake? A celestial body in a chart drawn by ancient astrologers? Here in San Antonio, it definitely stands for some fine dining on "Zunique" cuisine of the American Southwest.

The only "spirits" you'll find at this delightful River Walk dining spot are the "good spirits" of happy diners, enjoying delicious and original Southwest fare on one of the multi-terraced dining areas that overlook a charming, arched-stone bridge on the lazy San Antonio River. You can also find some pretty potent beverage "spirits" in the form of Zuni Grill's famous margaritas -- including their hot-pink, award-winning Cactus Margarita, voted the best margarita around by The Washington Post. (Zuni's Blue Margarita, Cactus Viper Margarita and Fruit Margaritas can definitely send you on a trip to the "spirit world," too!)

There's no "coiled rattlesnakes" to disturb diners here, but the potted cacti, sun-bleached cow skull, modern metal sculptings of ancient Zuni petroglyphs and colorful, modern Southwestern art (a bright red cowboy rides a white bull across a vivid yellow sky, and a giant cascaron releases its festive contents) leave no doubt as to what part of the country you are now in. Salsa music plays, and omnipresent chile peppers hang dried on the wall, framed in prints, and colorfully fill row after row of large, glass jars on the counter separating kitchen and diners. Ceiling fans swirl over the indoor, tile-topped tables, while ancient cypress and wood-framed umbrellas shade outdoor diners and ceiling-high doors are left open to the ambience of the relaxing river scene. A private dining room with a balcony offering a picturesque view of the winding river is located on the upper floor, while a full-service bar on this level specializes in tequilas and opens onto the street at 223 Losoya.

The only "celestial bodies" here are Zuni Grill's imaginative, four-star menu offerings, which will sate your hunger pangs with such unique fare as Scorpion Shrimp-Stuffed Red Chiles (with peach ginger dipping sauce), Blue Corn Enchiladas (with smoked chicken, sour cream & fiery tomatillo sauce) and Shiner Bock Black Bean Soup. Zuni Grill is also one of the few restaurants on the River Walk open for breakfast. Try Scrambled Eggs San Antonio Style (with corn tostados, melted cheese & Zuni's salsa verde) or treat your taste buds to their signature Ancho Toast, a crispy, toasted sweet bread with hint of ancho chile. Zuni Grill is listed in vegetarian guides as a top vegetarian destination, too. The Vegetable Omelette with cilantro pesto is a favorite, as is the Grilled Vegetable Pizza.

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The dessert menu includes Tres Leche Cake (with mango sauce and almond brittle) and sorbets specially prepared by Executive Chef Ed Ebert, who produces all his culinary creations from scratch. Ebert and his staff are creators of the legendary Zuni salsas, featured in Gourmet and Bon Appetit magazines. The red Fire Roasted Zuni Zalsa derives its seductive aroma and flavor from roasted jalapenos, while the green Zalsa Verde draws on the bright, fresh jalapeno flavor. Both may be purchased for your home dining pleasure, as well as distinctive Zuni Grill caps and T-shirts. (All sporting that deliciously mysterious Zuni symbol.) Ebert also partners with Chef Clark McDaniel, consulting chef for the Paesano's Restaurant Group and executive chef at the famous Angeluna in Fort Worth, to come up with such "Zunique" dining fare as Zuni's Wasabi Guacamole for the Herb-Seared Ahi Tuna and Stuffed Brie, featuring a brie wheel stuffed with chipotle peppers, smoked tomato and cilantro, and served streaked with a vibrant green cilantro oil in a large bowl with flour tortilla quarters extending from the bowl's edge (a real show-stopper).

Yes, here in San Antonio, that mysterious Zuni spiral definitely stands for memorable dining!

For reservations, call (210) 227-0864. Barge dining available.

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