Today, the Sea Island operation is in the capable hands of the third generation of Anthonys. Barkley heads up the operation, ably assisted by his brother, Nick.

The day we dropped in for lunch at the new location at I-10 near the Colonnade, just north of Wurzbach Avenue, we were cordially greeted by Manager David Olfers, a restaurateur for more than 20 years. Now, we have enjoyed the delicious seafood served at the original Sea Island, at 322 West Rector just behind North Star Mall, for many years. We are delighted to report the food quality and freshness are just as superb in this newer, larger location. It's a casual, laid-back sort of place, attractively decorated with mounted trophy fish, ropes and pulleys, ship's wheels and other nautical memorabilia. You step up to the counter and place your order after consulting a large and varied menu of tempting dishes. When your number is called, you carry your tray to your table.

For starters, my husband enjoyed a half-dozen fresh oysters on the half shell accompanied by a zesty cocktail sauce, while I was introduced to a delicious serving of ceviche, tangy with fresh tomatoes, cilantro, lime and guacamole. The fish is first poached, instead of the traditional "cooking" with just lime juice. Surrounded by fresh tostada chips, it could well serve as a meal rather than just an appetizer.

Next followed fresh Mississippi farm raised catfish, with a side order of shrimp for which the Sea Island is famous, for my husband. I enjoyed one of the luncheon specials, a half-dozen fried shrimp, a couple of pieces of fried fish, french fries, cole slaw and hushpuppies. It was unbelievably fresh and delicious.

The personable young Nick Anthony dropped by to visit with us and spoke enthusiastically about the family business he loves. Although his father Dan, now 80 years old, is no longer actively involved in the business, he still goes to his office weekly to personally sign and distribute all the company paychecks.

When I inquired what fish I was enjoying on the more than ample plate I had been served, Nick said it was pollock -- fresh from the icy waters off Iceland. The delicious, meaty white fish with a delicate flavor is hand-breaded and cooked to order. He also said all of the shrimp served at the restaurants come from the Texas Gulf Coast, because it has a better flavor than shrimp from other locales.

At Nick's insistence, we finished our meal with absolutely divine key lime pie, homemade at each restaurant. My husband doesn't even like key lime pie, but he declared this had to be an exception.

There are a number of delicious lunch specials each day, ranging from a reasonable $4.25 to $6.75. The portions are more than generous. Besides these specials, there are a number of house specialties, such as broiled lemon-pepper fish, char-grilled Norwegian salmon and spicy Cajun fish nuggets that have their own following of regular aficionados. Nick spoke eloquently of a new menu item -- the "Tampico fish," which comes with a hot and spicy tomatillo sauce atop a pan-broiled fish. We promised to try it next time. The restaurant has several tempting beef entrées as well, if there is a non-fish eater in your party.

In addition to the three San Antonio locations (the original Sea Island at 322 West Rector, by the North Star Mall, one at 5959 North West Loop 410 by Ingram Park Mall and the I-10 at the Colonnade location), there will be another opening at 2119 S. W. Military Drive this fall. There are Sea Island locations in Austin and Corpus Christi as well. The restaurants are open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. on Sunday.

You'll find that the Sea Island Shrimp Houses serve the tastiest seafood at the most affordable prices you'll find anywhere, anytime, and that's a Texas truism if you ever heard one.